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Posted (edited)

My water proofing (white silicone) around the windshield was tested today in the rain, and no more rain water leaks onto the dashboard, which was also leaking into the cuddy, but not now.

 

IMG_20180421_182230391_HDR.thumb.jpg.47044970fbba936392d08a64326ada14.jpg

 

Also, my rain "gutters" kept the rain out of the wheel house area. The (white) gutter is on both sides of the hardtop.

 

IMG_20180421_182120213_HDR.thumb.jpg.f5ed11d1896f5b9eb9e9829ce92060ff.jpg

Edited by Todd in NY
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

The gutter is 1/2" white vinyl J bead trim from the drywall area at Lowes.

Edited by Todd in NY
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks! The gutter is working great, even in the harder rainfall. That J bead trim was only $1.98 for a 10ft long piece (it took one piece per side).

  • Like 1
Posted

Wrap a piece of black electrical tape around the ends of the red negative wire to to indicate it is a negative wire.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 4/26/2018 at 6:28 AM, jimski2 said:

Wrap a piece of black electrical tape around the ends of the red negative wire to to indicate it is a negative wire.

 

That was the old wiring job. Did you notice the corrosion on those wire terminals? They had to go. I have replaced ALL of the 4ga wire with the correct color of wire for both batteries and the Perko switch, black for negative and red for positive. The only wires I haven't replaced back there are the wires coming from the starter on the main motor. But that might happen this year.

 

IMG_20180413_152412172_HDR.thumb.jpg.fc750466bb4682d9d2a943db83e743f7.jpg

Edited by Todd in NY
Posted

Forgot to mention the rain gutters hang about 1/4" below the bottom of the hardtop. It keeps the rain from dripping between the hardtop and side curtains. I pre-drilled the holes for the self-tapping screws, then added the screws to check the mounting of the gutter. Then I backed the screws out 2/3 of the way and added a bead of white silicone along the top inside of the gutter to form a nice water tight seal, then tightened the screws.

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice job and congrats to your never ending wire & plyer nightmare, I’m sure there was a few choice words used while hanging from a sky hook:lol: to reach into every nook & cranny that the previous owner had going in. You brought that boat a long way since the project started. You should have enough wire to make it worthwhile to make a scrap run and make enough to cover your gas costs running to the different stores to get must have items!!:lol:. I know personally how time consuming that project is, plus it’s about as much fun as mowing grass with a push mower.... great job and nice to see how everything progressed as your determination to make it right pushed you to the finish line. Wheeew :whew: now you can finally sit in the captains chair with confidence!! :yes:  :yes: Nice job.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the kind words Pap! I'm just working on little things such as adding access doors to the seat boxes, like this one on the left side seat box.

 

IMG_20180420_174602918_HDR.thumb.jpg.87ccfacaf3f2a73dd04f4264ae48258d.jpg

 

IMG_20180420_174634083.thumb.jpg.db9083de22b5476e4244a8ff28d349f2.jpg

 

There's a bunch of storage space under both seat boxes that I couldn't reach because the only access was by raising the rear seat. They did have two drawers built into the right side seat box, so all I have to do is make the drawer taller in the middle of the seat box.

Posted (edited)

Quite a few updates this week. Replaced my red & green nav lights on the bow, replaced my anchor/nav mast head light, and bought a new light bulb and white globe for my stern light.

 

Old

IMG_20180427_164514.thumb.jpg.3fb4984a20ffd33b73348af202735c1e.jpg

 

New

IMG_20180427_163748.thumb.jpg.ccf8a4430784917d35a0233b456fe4a2.jpg

 

The old mast head light was broken on the rear light bulb holder, and the covers were so dirty you couldn't see through them.

 

New

IMG_20180427_163827.thumb.jpg.a5defc49d564a9751720047412d114e2.jpg

Edited by Todd in NY
Posted (edited)

Also added a book/map rack inside the cuddy, put all four covers on the battery terminals and enlarged a drawer on the right side seat box to create more usable storage.

 

IMG_20180427_165856.thumb.jpg.8c6d29491ea88dbfd93272edf0b00837.jpg

 

Before, the drawer in the middle was about 6" deep

IMG_20180427_155133305_HDR.thumb.jpg.e31dc97295477a0fcedfd56ae33769a3.jpg

 

After, it's 19" deep, or tall, and holds 11 Plano style boxes

IMG_20180427_183102554_HDR.thumb.jpg.6880383cc05026bac86702231203175a.jpg

 

The drawers drop down 3/4" when they are closed, which keeps them from sliding out. Something the previous owner did, and it's a fantastic design.

IMG_20180427_181445789.thumb.jpg.1f969cac26997f4b8c5c8b3a7c2ea2af.jpg

 

I had to cut the upper part of the drawer just 12" wide because of the supporting 2x4's running lengthwise just above the widest part of the drawer, where it is 14.75" wide.

Edited by Todd in NY
  • Like 1
Posted
Also added a book/map rack inside the cuddy, put all four covers on the battery terminals and enlarged a drawer on the right side seat box to create more usable storage.
 
IMG_20180427_165856.thumb.jpg.8c6d29491ea88dbfd93272edf0b00837.jpg
 
Before, the drawer in the middle was about 6" deep
IMG_20180427_155133305_HDR.thumb.jpg.e31dc97295477a0fcedfd56ae33769a3.jpg
 
After, it's 19" deep, or tall, and holds 11 Plano style boxes that are 9" front to back
IMG_20180427_183102554_HDR.thumb.jpg.6880383cc05026bac86702231203175a.jpg
 
The drawers drop down 3/4" when they are closed, which keeps them from sliding out. Something the previous owner did, and it's a fantastic design.
IMG_20180427_181445789.thumb.jpg.1f969cac26997f4b8c5c8b3a7c2ea2af.jpg
 
I had to cut the upper part of the drawer just 12" wide because of the supporting 2x4's running lenthwise just above the widest part of the drawer, where it is 14.75" wide.
Some awesome ideas there

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Lake Ontario United mobile app

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I built a catch-all tray across the inside of the transom. All I had to do was add an 80" long piece of composite deck board and some 1/4" thick rubber stall mat on the inside/bottom. I left a 1.5" gap on both ends of the "tray" for water runoff. The tray is 83" long, almost 4" tall and 6" front to back.

 

Before

IMG_20180427_135018759_HDR.thumb.jpg.6e961dd1f1aca59be8029e5040628c47.jpg

 

After

IMG_20180427_140557996_HDR.thumb.jpg.98641d1eeb7804df551e1a072ef83427.jpg

 

IMG_20180427_140623838_HDR.thumb.jpg.d2bd129bae7e171cd875fc251213d363.jpg

 

IMG_20180427_140721786.thumb.jpg.9db02cecf45bdea31a164d7faa6f43a0.jpg

 

I also put a long piece of 1/4" stall mat (almost 5ft long) inside the left seat box to have some padding between the anchor and the metal floor.

IMG_20180427_143624605_HDR.thumb.jpg.b81baafdfd22fca12f9acd06e34ea128.jpg

 

And here are the single and triple rod holders I added a few weeks ago, all Tite-Loks

IMG_20180427_140932411.thumb.jpg.4413968e56621a2828a528bf4a2f2bcd.jpg

Edited by Todd in NY
Posted (edited)

I also put a 14" windshield wiper on to replace the 11.5" wiper that was only attached with a small zip tie. I used a #8 SS screw and lock nut rather than a zip tie :lol:

 

The new white stern light cover, with the light on. I wanted a clear lens but this will suffice

IMG_20180427_163932.thumb.jpg.de4b580a1c1c51d50dad3b66e3be9e0a.jpg

Edited by Todd in NY
Posted
11 minutes ago, Decoy Hound said:

Hell of a job, looks really good!!

 

Thank you very much! We have rain in the forecast for tonight and EVERY day through Friday, so I'm not sure when I'll get to add my second fuel line to my fuel/water separater (for my kicker).

 

I still have some other plans for creating storage space under the left seat box and inside the cuddy under the seat cushions.

Posted

Earlier this month, before I uncovered my boat, I installed my Humminbird 959ci HD GPS (standard 83/200 ducer), my Lowrance HDS 8 Gen2 non-touch (50/200 ducer), and my Sub Troll. All are mounted on Johnny Ray swivel mounts.

 

This was when I realized that I needed to re-wire my boat because none of my electronics worked.

 

IMG_20180427_222532.thumb.jpg.d252f379fb9842f0ca8edde3b963fab8.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Spent nearly 6 hours fixing the wiring on my boat trailer today. Not surprised after having to re-wire the boat. Fixed more than 20 bad splices, still didn't have turn signals or brake lights. So I replaced both tail light assemblies and the right side amber light. The left amber light  was like new, so now all the trailer lights work.

 

I also installed the 2nd and final LED light in the right side gunnel. There are no lights on the right side (keeping it simple for now), and replaced the 2 old light fixtures that were already there but not working).

 

IMG_20180501_182711541_HDR.thumb.jpg.5c4325edb94d04b581935fbf05fb0ba5.jpg

Edited by Todd in NY
Posted
42 minutes ago, lineman49 said:

  Looks good, you cleaned it up nice!  You & NymphO should go into business together , both do nice work.

 

Thanks! It's always helpful to see how other boat owners do things.

 

We all know how limited boats can be for storage, so we have to think outside the box and try to create storage without sacrificing fishing space. Between coolers, tackle boxes, rods, nets and other fishing items, there's only so much usable space in a boat.

 

I'm not finished with my boat yet, so I'll keep posting my progress.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Not much progress today. I was planning to jack my trailer up and pull the bearings to inspect them and repack them with grease, but with the wind gusting 40mph and moving the boat around quite a bit, I figured the bearings can wait for a better day.

 

I installed the extra line fuel out of the fuel/water separater for my kicker motor, complete with anti siphon valve, shutoff valve and primer bulb. It's the grey hose in the pics.

 

IMG_20180502_165622.thumb.jpg.00ac37b51a45e3eede98c993128504d5.jpg

 

IMG_20180502_165646.thumb.jpg.673facf7b74b71ffcb84519211bf0579.jpg

Edited by Todd in NY

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