Cannon mag 10A Auto stop REPAIR.

[garrymny]

 

Ok, the units with the Black case have (or can have) auto stop. Mine do. One of my two is not working.  You can replace the rubber slug that is in the spool, and makes contact with the rigger wire.If the auto Stop works, but does not stop, try replaceing the slug with the new steel screw.  I replaced mine with the steel allen screws. If the auto stop does not work at all, the the board itself is bad. The  correct board is PN  3394001, for my units which have a board that is covered in a black coating. Here is how to wire it because the one I got is different than the one that went bad: The switch wires are self explanatory. Disconnect and reconnect the white , violet, and blue wires to the switch.

 

Then to hook up the rest of the terminals:

 

Looking at the new board, with the switch wires at the top left: the first terminal to the right of the switch wires (mine is labeled J 5)  connect the  GRN/to motor/ bolt,

next terminal to right (mine is labeled J2) connect to  Red PWR from the CB,

next one to right (mine is labeled J4) to motor (either red or mine is yellow),

next one to right is  (mine is labeled J3) connect to motor (black or mine is yellow/black)

Last one to right  (mine is labeled J1) connect to negative black from battery.

 

I will reply to this with a picture.

 

Sent from my XT1030 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

 

 

Edited July 5, 2018 by garrymny

[garrymny]

 
Ok, the units with the Black case have (or can have) auto stop. Mine do. One of my two is not working.  You can replace the rubber slug that is in the spool, and makes contact with the rigger wire.If the auto Stop works, but does not stop, try replaceing the slug with the new steel screw.  I replaced mine with the steel allen screws. If the auto stop does not work at all, the the board itself is bad. The  correct board is PN  3394001, for my units which have a board that is covered in a black coating. Here is how to wire it because the one I got is different than the one that went bad: The switch wires are self explanatory. Disconnect and reconnect the white , violet, and blue wires to the switch.
 
Then to hook up the rest of the terminals:
 
Looking at the new board, with the switch wires at the top left: the first terminal to the right of the switch wires (mine is labeled J 5)  connect the  GRN/to motor/ bolt,
next terminal to right (mine is labeled J2) connect to  Red PWR from the CB,
next one to right (mine is labeled J4) to motor (either red or mine is yellow),
next one to right is  (mine is labeled J3) connect to motor (black or mine is yellow/black)
Last one to right  (mine is labeled J1) connect to negative black from battery.
 
I will reply to this with a picture.
 
Sent from my XT1030 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 
 
 

Old bad unit had the encapsulated black conformal coating., the new replacement unit is also shown. On the old unit, I snipped off the green wire that goes to the mounting bolts on the motor. I need the wire for the new board.

Sent from my XT1030 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[Todd in NY]

Thanks for posting! 

[Sk8man]

I believe the reason the board looks different is that they now are manufactured by a different manufacturer as they were discontinued and unavailable for awhile

Edited July 8, 2018 by Sk8man

[garrymny]

Make sure when you reinstall switch you orient it with the momentarily spring loaded side UP. So when you toggle the switch momentarily up, the motor starts running. Switch will return to center, but motor will run up until the auto stop stops it when the cable breaks surface. Also, with the switch properly oriented as above, if the motor runs the wrong direction simply reverse the wires to the motor. My above notes were wrong, had to reverse the wires. Learn from my trial and error and save some work!

Sent from my XT1030 using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[Awolf49078]

Where did you get the new board?  On my DR will go down and will not retrieve 

[Awolf49078]

On 7/8/2018 at 7:36 AM, Sk8man said:

I believe the reason the board looks different is that they now are manufactured by a different manufacturer as they were discontinued and unavailable for awhile

Do you know where I can get one?

[Sk8man]

Six years later I have no idea. Maybe try to contact garymny to see where he got his? Sorry about that.  Also may want to post on here that you are in search of the board as someone may have one that is functional. The old stuff has become as rare as hen's teeth now Good luck.

Edited February 28 by Sk8man

[Awolf49078]

I’m bypassing the board and direct working a switch lol. Easier and cheaper

[Sk8man]

[stinger]

1 hour ago, Awolf49078 said:

I’m bypassing the board and direct working a switch lol. Easier and cheaper

Most of the Big Jon's operate like that. I've been doing it for over 30 years.  Just be sure that you have the clutch set to just hold the rigger ball while trolling so if the ball comes all the way up before you stop it the cable doesn't snap      . 

[HB2]

I bypassed the board and went to direct switch on my Mag 10s . It worked great for a while but then the motors were worn out . 

 

I got momentary down, full up switch. 

[Awolf49078]

I got momentary switch bit directions

[stinger]

Think twice about momentary switches. When you start fishing the 70' to 120' depths it will be frustrating holding the switch down setting a line or retrieving the ball to reset a line. Manual switch is good, the clutch is your friend.

Edited February 29 by stinger

[Awolf49078]

I won’t be myself out there, I think it should be ok until I open the wallet for some new ones lol.