Sealing underside of plywood floor..

VooDoo · October 3, 2018

I will do some core samples of the foam to see if it is saturated. If it is and I rip it out how do you get new foam in. Manufacturers put floor down then drill holes and pour in the foam. I could do it that way but it looks like it would defeat the purpose since the foam would once again be touching the under side of the plywood.

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rolmops · October 4, 2018

If your boat is under 20 foot length you must by law have flotation foam, so if you remove it, you must replace it. One cubic foot of foam has 62 pounds of upward force, but one cubic foot of saturated foam weighs 62 pounds. It is good to replace saturated foam. Removing it makes the boat a lot lighter and gives you a chance to inspect the hull for possible leaks. As for pouring in the replacement foam. It is ideally done in a 70 degree Fahrenheit environment for perfect expansion of the foam . when it is colder there is less expansion. Just go to I-boats.com and search "pouring foam". Not only the manufacturers do what you just described. Everybody does it that way. It prevents the foam from "boiling over". The foam ideally glues itself to the floor and there should not be any room for water in there, no matter how much water you get on the floor. A boat with the foam removed or replaced by noodles or other nonsense will no longer be covered by insurance no matter how much you pay to insure it.

Edited October 4, 2018 by rolmops

ri rory · October 4, 2018

Quote

sent you a P M

coach

rolmops · October 5, 2018

11 hours ago, ri rory said:

sent you a P M

coach

Try again, I never got it

scobar · October 6, 2018

With foam be sure to use closed cell, not open cell. Many
Home Insulation companies can spray foam for you

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VooDoo · October 9, 2018

Checked with a local spray foam insulation contractor. They wanted $600 to spray. Considering my compartments arent that big I thought that was pretty high. I ordered 4 gals of marine foam from U S Composites. $134. Absolutely the best price that I found anywhere. Just about ready to foam

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scobar · October 9, 2018

Do it on the warmest day possible for best expansion

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VooDoo · October 9, 2018

Figures, been in the 80s here. Foam wont get here till end of week when temps are supposed to drop. Hopefully it will get back into 70s

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rolmops · October 10, 2018

That will give you the time to prepare and get the mixing tools

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Chas0218 · October 10, 2018

I wouldn't be sealing anything unless I'm completely encapsulating it. If you don't allow it to breath on the bottom where the water will be getting to then it will rot quicker than anything, pressure treated or not. I would just do as the original was it lasted long enough.

Edited October 10, 2018 by Chas0218

yabmob · October 10, 2018

Look up Aluthane from epoxyprodrcts.com. used it on the floors and hull of my Islander when I re did the floor. It is not cheap but it goes. A long way. Used one gallon for my floors and transom. Ditto on the foam. Mine was saturated. Removed it and found a small hole below the waterline that I repaired. I was going to top coat the aluthane but I left it and 3 years later the floors look great. Epoxy Products were great to deal with. Answered questions quickly. I did have to ship to a US address because I live in Canada. No big problem as I go to Buffalo often.

VooDoo · October 10, 2018

Everything is ready. Old foam out. I do intend to coat both sides and all edges of the new plywood with 2 part epoxy . Pics later. Pouring rain.

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VooDoo · October 10, 2018

Im also going to try to leave about an inch of space between the foam and plywood. This should help things breath.

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rolmops · October 11, 2018

How bad was the foam?

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scobar · October 11, 2018

Check out all your fuel lines, might be a good time to change them and any clamps. If you have live wells reseal the drains on them, they do start to leak over tme

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VooDoo · October 11, 2018

I bought new gas lines. Livewell is solid plastic. Drain molded in. Not really anything to seal on it. I'm not doing the front of the boat at this time. Floor is solid up front. Probably do it in a year or two. The foam that I'm replacing had some areas that were completely saturated. Mainly under the rear deck. The rest of the foam had the bottom soaked but not completely saturated. Went ahead and removed it

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scobar · October 12, 2018

I was talking about the fitting through the boat for drain on live well, I have seen that leak

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VooDoo · October 17, 2018

All foam out. Starboard side poured with new foam. Decided to pour and work down high spots. Will then seal foam with epoxy. Didnt want to drill holes in new floor. Trying to stay at least 1/4" below floor with the foam so it can breathe as well as letting the floor be able to dry.

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VooDoo · October 17, 2018

Floor cut out and underside and edges sealed with 2 coats of epoxy

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scobar · October 18, 2018

Looks like you are going a bank up job with the details. I would now pay attention to not letting any water even thinking about getting to the underside of your floor. Caulk all screws before installing and Caulk the edge of the floor before and after you lay it down. Good for another 75 years!

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VooDoo · October 18, 2018

Yeah, gonna try to seal it. A little undecided on what to use for caulk. Would like to have something I could paint over with the epoxy. Have a big tube of 5200 but I dont think its paintable. Am also condidering just using 40 yr. Paintable Dap with silicone. It would remain flexible and about 3 coats of epoxy over it would seal it. I'm going to put at least 3 and maybe 4 drains that will flow directly into the v part of the hull and run directly into the bilge.

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VooDoo · October 19, 2018

Also have to figure out a drain system for the floor where the oil reservoir and batteries go under the rear deck. Also adding 3/16" aluminum to the outside of the transom to beef it up a little. Overall the transom is pretty solid. Just doing what i can to beef it up a little.

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VooDoo · October 23, 2018

Final coat on deck. Has sharkskin non slip additive added into the epoxy.

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VooDoo · October 30, 2018

Floor and drains are in. Just have to silicone the seams and cracks

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VooDoo · October 30, 2018

Next is the rear deck and console.

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