Cannon Mag 10HS troubleshooting

[codybuehler]

I have a Cannon Mag 10HS that doesn’t want to work. I opened the side compartment and tested all the stuff I could get my multimeter on. The wires all tested good, the switch changes state when you click it back and forth, the little circuit breaker reads closed, the electric motor reads 0 ohms across the wires and spins freely. The gear box looks fine. I’m to the point to believe it’s the circuit board. Anyone have any insight on how to test the board or is it where I am that if everything else filters out as good it has to be the board? Thanks!

[Ready or Knot]

If you have a 0 ohm reading this shows it to be an open circuit. Possibly a brush issue or the windings are bad 

[codybuehler]

If you have a 0 ohm reading this shows it to be an open circuit. Possibly a brush issue or the windings are bad 

0 ohms I meant as a closed circuit. It read as 0 resistance. My cheap little meter shows an open circuit as “1 . “ I’m half thinking though that I should have shown a tiny bit of resistance from the windings themselves? There’s not miles and miles of copper in a little motor like that, but I assumed I should see a very small (milliohms even) resistance?

[Bozeman Bob]

I thought they had a lifetime warranty ??

[codybuehler]

I thought they had a lifetime warranty ??

They do, for the original owner. I’m at least the second owner on these. I just want to get it in perfect working order to sell these eventually!

[Ready or Knot]

Put power to unit with motor unhooked and test voltage coming out of board. Also check from motor leads to motor housing to see if you have an internal short. You should have resistance through the motor. 0 is open 1 is closed on meter. Hope this helps. Test other rigger to compare . Good luck

[GAMBLER]

More than likely it is a bad board.  It is the most common thing to go on Cannon riggers.  Easy fix.  Fish 307 has replacement boards. 

[RodBuster]

O ohms is not open, it is zero resistance (Short). An open circuit is infinite ohms.  Likely the motor is fine. It is not zero ohms, but close to it. Your meter probably isn't that precise. First check the load side of the circuit breaker to make sure it is not faulty. Then unhook one of the motor leads from the board. When you hit the switch you should hear (and you can feel it too, if you put your finger on the relay.) the relay clicking. The relays (one for raise, one for lower)  are the black boxes on the board. If they are clicking then the circuit board is getting the signal from the switch. Take a jumper wire and connect the motor directly to the load side of the circuit breaker. The motor should run. If the motor runs and you hear the relay clicking in you probably have a cold solder joint in the board. Likely the 12V  (load) circuit part of the board. I just fixed one recently with that problem. ( A one minute solder job) If you are so inclined I can send you some picture of the pin outs of the relays so you can check them.

 

While I am at it...the printed circuit boards on cannons are junk.  They claim they are potted (coated to resist corrosion), but its a poor excuse for potting. Open up a Penn (wish they still made them) if you want to know what real potting is.