1990 221v islander hard top wet foam

[john pyle]

i got all the foam out do u put foam back in leave it out use noodles boat is 22ft pros & cons any input appreciated

[Songdog]

 John,

   I would recommend using a 6# density polyurethane foam.  This would have been the factory foam. the expanding foam will add rigidity to the hull and improve the ride as well as fill all the small cavities. Id also recommend filling the entire cavity under the floor this will discourage rain from collecting there. I recently rebuilt a 17' aluminum center console using the 6# foam. couldn't be happier. 

 

Edited February 21, 2019 by Songdog

[Fishnut]

The last boat I did I used ping pong balls. That don’t take on water, ever.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[bandrus1]

1 minute ago, Fishnut said:

The last boat I did I used ping pong balls. That don’t take on water, ever.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Nice idea there

[SylvanTroller]

Jamestown distributors sells the closed cell, 2 part pourable foam. I used it when I restored my sylvan. Just make sure you block off areas you do not want the foam to go as it will expand and fill everything


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[rolmops]

Legally, you do not have to have flotation foam in boats over 20 feet. That said, I very much recommend putting it in anyway. As far as ping pong balls or pool noodles go, just imagine that a deck board pops loose and all your ping pong balls float away. Same with noodles. A cubic foot of CLOSED CELL gives you about 62 pounds of upward force under water, but both noodles and balls have a lot of space between each other and lower the upward force by probably 30 %. Besides a lot of noodles or ping pong balls are probably just as expensive as proper foam. So you may as well do it right the first time.Usually insurance companies take a very dim view of noodles .

[Frogger]

Jamestown distributors sells the closed cell, 2 part pourable foam. I used it when I restored my sylvan. Just make sure you block off areas you do not want the foam to go as it will expand and fill everything


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Yes, and leave some vent holes for overage to escape during the fill process.


Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

[bigturk_80]

I don't know if you tackled this job yet, but I have the same boat and did the same job.  Pulled all the old foam, fixed a few rivets with solid marine rivets, sealed with Gluvit, and redid the foam and floors.  I went with an idea I saw on the starcraft restoration forum over at Iboats.  I used the blue closed cell 4x8 sheets.  Laid them lengthwise along the aluminum floor supports.  Cut them off flush.  Tucked them all in tight from side to side, bow to stern.  Wherever there was room, I stuffed more cuttings in.  Once you secure the floor down it's rock solid and the foam on edge provides a bunch of hull support.  Ended up way cheaper than the 2 part epoxy, which we all know breaks down over time.  

Cheers.