Bought a 1998 Pro-line 241 I/O

[Chas0218]

Well I got the wiring all figured out, man was that a mess. I'm so happy I had a test light otherwise it would have taken forever. Before I was getting nothing to the starter or the solenoid but now I'm getting power all the way to the starter. I pulled the starter and bench tested it and it was fine working as it should. I will move the one ground to the block and see if that helps things and re-install the starter and see how it all goes. Fingers crossed I can get this thing up and running this week.

[Todd in NY]

Did you have to pull the motor to get access to the starter? Glad you are making progress.

[Chas0218]

 

12 hours ago, Todd in NY said:

Did you have to pull the motor to get access to the starter? Glad you are making progress.

No I ended up pulling the exhaust manifolds. I got her running without the manifolds, I didn't run her long just enough to make sure she ran. So the motor definitely isn't locked up and not really running too bad. I think there is a short in the wire from the solenoid to the starter. I ended up running the wire from the key switch to the starter and she fired.

Edited May 9, 2019 by Chas0218

[Todd in NY]

That's good news!

 

When Spicer's marina got their first look at my "new" boat in October 2017, their email to me sounded like I might need a new outboard, and some major fuel issues to fix. It ended up being some simple fixes, and the 1989 Evinrude 150 runs like a top.

 

I hope for an easy solution for your "new" boat. Well, easier than original expectations 

Edited June 10, 2019 by Todd in NY

[Chas0218]

Just wanted to give a little update. The upper housing input bearings and shaft are shot. Marina had a used unit that was in real good shape going to re seal and sell it for $1k. Motor runs but the original flywheel was toasted so had to pull the motor and replace that. Well after installing it all the starter that was in it toasted the flywheel ring gear again so back out it the motor is coming and getting a new starter.

Motor seems to run well up to 3k then starts to break up popping and stuttering. Any ideas on the popping and stuttering im all ears.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[Todd in NY]

2 hours ago, Chas0218 said:

Just wanted to give a little update. The upper housing input bearings and shaft are shot. Marina had a used unit that was in real good shape going to re seal and sell it for $1k. Motor runs but the original flywheel was toasted so had to pull the motor and replace that. Well after installing it all the starter that was in it toasted the flywheel ring gear again so back out it the motor is coming and getting a new starter.

Motor seems to run well up to 3k then starts to break up popping and stuttering. Any ideas on the popping and stuttering im all ears.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

 

Thinking worst case scenario (hopefully NOT)... how much is a re-power vs fixing the current engine & outdrive?

Edited June 10, 2019 by Todd in NY

[mr.mo 55]

check points and spark plugs had one bad plug made a popping noise.   also had a high speed skip needed to put a ground wire from alternator to block.   good luck

[Chas0218]

On 6/10/2019 at 10:40 AM, mr.mo 55 said:

check points and spark plugs had one bad plug made a popping noise.   also had a high speed skip needed to put a ground wire from alternator to block.   good luck

No points has the thunderbolt system. I'm planning to start simple and go with plugs and wires. Cap and rotor look real good. Was also thinking maybe a fuel issue.

On 6/10/2019 at 12:37 AM, Todd in NY said:

 

Thinking worst case scenario (hopefully NOT)... how much is a re-power vs fixing the current engine & outdrive?

Re-power is out of the question, still quite a bit more than fixing the current motor and outdrive. Even if I had to get a new long block and fixed the outdrive I would be less than a used 250hp outboard with bracket. When I was comparing it would be around $8500 for a outboard re-power if that was what you were referring to.

 

The shop said $1000 for a used upper housing with new seals. The motor I can get a short block for $800 and heads are cheap from salvage yards and I can rebuild myself.

 

Compression is solid on all cylinders no extra steam or air coming from the valve covers so there shouldn't be excessive blowby.

Edited June 12, 2019 by Chas0218

[Chas0218]

I've been reading and my issue might be the Ignition Sensor. Mine is a bit rusty and might be contributing to the higher rpm miss. So it idles fantastic I mean it will just sit there for hours and get up to ~2800 rpm then start popping out the carb. The original owners said fuel issue but I ran it off a remote tank and had exact same issue as being hooked up to the big tank.