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Posted

I guess I am still interested in the shark weights (peoples comments were generally positive when I posted a question about them last fall) but I have Cannon Mag 10s and I know they can't handle 20#. I think they could handle the 12# ok , I don't know about 15# . What's the best place to shop for the Sharks, maybe Santa needs to know!

Posted

Checked out the site, thanks. I guess I am leaning towards the 12#. I want to think these will : 1-Help keep lines from crossing ,enabling us to turn sharper. 2-Offer some attraction, due to the facets and size.3-reduce blowback , especially on the probe rigger, and 4-not kill my rigger motors. If anybody thinks I should get the 15 # instead, TELL ME NOW!

Thanks- Andy

Posted

Andy,

I run a 15lb shark with a Mag 10 and the rigger has no problems pulling it. I use it primarily on my probe rigger. It really helps w/ the blow-back.

Hope this helps.

Brian

Posted

More issues; Do you shark pros run the smooth/stealth model if you are using flashers on the rigger rod? Is it a good idea to get a mix of smooth and faceted, or what?

Posted

Chowder:

I switched to a 15 # chrome faceted shark on my probe rigger in August. My MAG-10 seems OK but the wieght is noticable - the circuit breaker popped once and the fuse blew once. I seem to be catching more fish on that rigger than the non-shark riggers.

Posted

Last time I was up at Fat Nancy's they had 12/15lb Sharks in stock. If your up that way you can pick them up in person and save yourself shipping costs out of Canada.

Posted

I am leaning pretty hard towards the 12#, after comments here + some pms. The Shark website makes a point of saying that the faceted finish can confuse a salmon if you are using flashers or longer leads, what do you guys make of that?

Posted

I use the faceted finish with flashers all the time and there doesn't seem to be any confusion going on. I'm a firm believer in the Shark weights, but I'm afraid that I don't agree with them on this one.

Posted

What kind of releases are you guys using with the sharks. I have some stacker type releases I could use. It does not look like you can snap onto the eye, seems like the tail could catch it?

Posted
What kind of releases are you guys using with the sharks. I have some stacker type releases I could use. It does not look like you can snap onto the eye, seems like the tail could catch it?

I attach a DuBro or a Black's release to the terminal end of the cable, then below that attach the shark, torpedo, or ball.

Attaching the release to the actual weight itself causes excessive blowback and affects the performance of the weight, whether it be a shark, torpedo, or a ball. ;)

Posted

I do the same with the blacks release, and I run the 12lb on the Finger Lakes and the 12 or 15 on Ontario with no problems. I switched off and on with reg lead weights and the shark weights last summer on the Finger Lakes and I know I defently caught more browns and bows off the rigg with no shark weight. Salmon and lakers was about the same. Who knows :o the 12 or 15 lb shark does help wth the probe rig blow back.

Sean

Posted

Chowder:

If this is for your probe cable then attach a Walker terminator release. Works just like the Blacks but it can be easily modified to send the probe signal upline.

Posted

Well, the more info I get, the less I feel like I know about these Sharks, so I must be getting somewhere!

As far as the Blacks release goes, is the one with the cable what enables you to not hook to the weight, the other version has a snap- no cable?

Tim, the picture I found of the Walker release makes it look like a stacker type, with 2 pinch pads and a clip- is this the one you are talking about?

Posted

Andy:

It's the Line Release/Clincher Combo at:

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... hasJS=true

It's the item on the far rght.

Bill Ruth (Billy V) published a picture and directions several time showing how to modify this for your probe (DR or ST). It takes all of 10 minutes once you have the hardware. The modification involves drilling out the rivet that holds the snap swivel in place, exchanging this snap swivel for a sturdier Cannon snap swivel and replacing the rivet with a stainless steel screw and nut. The cable runs through the clincher by about 10 inches. Attach an eye terminal to the end of the cable (strip the connection pioint for continuity) and attach the terminal under the nut. You end up with a conductive terminal that allows you to remove your probe when desired. It's good juju.

Here's a picture:

WalkerLineRelease-ClincherCombo.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

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