Downrigger board mount ideas?

[Hachimo]

I have a 1986 bayliner trophy 2460 with 8ft beam.  I currently have two mag 10’s off the back and two bigjon with swivel bases goin off the side.  The mounts are drilled into the gunnel and I’m thinkin of doin away with the mag 10’s and running 4 big jons and would really like to have everything on a board. What do you guys use for HOMEMADE boards.  Aluminum/wood? I was thinkin maybe tryin to find a piece of aluminum 1in thick then 6in wide across the back and then welding 4 mounts to the bottom of that and bolting into the gunnel where my downrigger mounts are so I’m not drilling a million holes into my boat.  Any pics,or thoughts of what u guys got would be much appreciated.  Thanks

[LongLine]

Here's what I did many many years ago, a hinged board & it's still going strong.  (note I never leave gear in my boat) I placed

two permanent pieces of aluminum bolted to gunnels with backer plate underneath:

 

I use two screws per end to hold the board: (wing nuts locked in place on 1/4x20's)

 

A hinged board allows me to get the riggers out away from the boat.  Even tho' I've got extendable booms, I can swivel the riggers parallel to the boat to change lures (forward) & never have to worry about bouncing the weights off the side of the boat and don't have to lift the rigger.  Also just hinge it upward to land at dock. 

 

 

Works for me.

I would not use aluminum for the board.  It will bend over time.  

 

Tom B.

[BottomDollar]

I used aluminum "C" channel bolted to track pedestals. On a wider boat than mine (only 80" vs your 96") 4 riggers would fit no problem.

 

Edited June 4, 2019 by BottomDollar

[Hachimo]

Longline, thanks for the pics and how you did yours.  Did u use a regular pressure treated 2x6 then paint it? Or is it a specialty wood.  

BottomDollar your concept was my first idea. Ive been lookin in local scrap yards for a piece of aluminum and i can weld the braces on it and bolth the riger mounts right to it.  

 

Thanks for you imput guys.  Maybe this will be my weekend project if i can get up the materials 

[LongLine]

No, it's a regular 2x8.  Check the end grain before you buy.  Get as straight an end grain as you can.  Pressure treated will warp bad as those timbers come from center of trees.  (They cup, crack & shrink bad over time)  .

 

Tom B.

(LongLine)

 

[Hachimo]

I didnt know that.  Thanks for knowledge. 

[Tyee II]

You should bolt your stuff on, not weld, IMO. If something nreaks it will be easily removable.

[Smat64]

I have this bar for sale 150.


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[guffins fisherman]

What about using a piece of the synthetic decking? Sure it will cost more, but is very stable, is easy to work with, will last forever and you have a pick of some colors that might set up nicely with your boat. Just a thought.

No, it's a regular 2x8.  Check the end grain before you buy.  Get as straight an end grain as you can.  Pressure treated will warp bad as those timbers come from center of trees.  (They cup, crack & shrink bad over time)  .
 
Tom B.
(LongLine)
 

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[Hachimo]

I was thinkin the same about using trex Decking but really want the stainless or aluminum look

 

 

thank you guys again for all your thoughts 

[orangediablo]

Any reason you can't put a track back there?  Or would that be too much weight with 4 riggers?

[LongLine]

I don't know much about the decking, but one thing to remember is that 4 riggrs in the water will put a lot of torque/twist/pull on the board brackets.  Make sure you have a good solid backer plate under the gunnels. (Much wider and longer that whatever you attach the board to above the gunnels.)  As to a metal board, I think a channel would work much better than a solid piece.  Also, stainless is liable to get hot on a bright day so I wouldn't want my mono line to touch it late July.

 

Tom B.

(LongLine)

[nhjim]

yea dont use decking will sag and wont hold that.

[guffins fisherman]

yea dont use decking will sag and wont hold that.

Good point. I didn't think of that. On a wide beam, I bet that thing would sag terrible.

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