cracked block help!!

[Zinger11]

1 hour ago, MINNOWNITE said:

Funny how i get all these suggestions after I already repaired it and installed it into the boat. But thank you never the less!

funny maybe we have more time on our hands without being able to fish

[dbitting]

MY bad i don't get on here too often and when i did for another post I noticed  your post

[MINNOWNITE]

all good guys! any advice is always appreciated. even after the fact. Who knows joe blow in 3 years will be reading this post and learn something for himself!

 

[dbitting]

I actually have a OMC 4.3l block that just a crack in it looks like yours and i am deciding what to do with it

[MINNOWNITE]

Just now, dbitting said:

I actually have a OMC 4.3l block that just a crack in it looks like yours and i am deciding what to do with it

Hopefully you found some answers here. Once i use mine a few times i'll report back. and after a year if i remember

[dbitting]

I actually have a OMC 4.3l block that just a crack in it looks like yours and i am deciding what to do with it

[dbitting]

I actually went the other route i got another block and it is at the machine shop now. Bored .030 over refinish crank new internals  rebuilt heads and added a closed cooling system. i am picking up the motor this Saturday

[MINNOWNITE]

So got it all back together and trying to set the timing now. I followed oem specs. cyl 1 tdc. rotor pointing toward cyl 1. but wont fire. got spark. got fuel. Going to get a new cap and rotor today. Any idea what i'm missing?

[dbitting]

Only need 3 things to get it to fire. Air, Fuel and spark  air you have  spark you checked so  make sure fuel is getting to the cylinder. Pull the plug on a cylinder and see if it is wet.  Are you sure are on TDC #1 cylinder AND both valves closed. if not  pull the distributer and rotate engine again until it is. if you blow air into the cylinder and it don't leak out you should be at TDC for that cylinder  with the timing mark on TDC. Hope this helps

 

[dbitting]

What i was told was to mark the distributor where the plug wire is for #1 Cylinder  bring the engine to TDC confirm it is on the firing stroke and the distributor will drop in. if it doesn't mover the rotor counter clockwise a bit and drop it in. when you have it right it will fall pretty much in but it may not bottom out because the oil drive didn't engage yet. turning the motor over by hand will allow it to drop the rest of the way. crank the motor moving the distributor slightly until it fires will get you close  to timing then check with a light

[MINNOWNITE]

Gotter going! New cap and rotor. Moved distributor in the proper place (cyl 1 on the distributor. Not engine) not my brightest moment. All I needed was to hear it run. Now to get a timing light and finish the job. 

But then built this! Should be good for running on land. Much better than muffs

[dbitting]

That barrel idea is awesome. I have to complete my new engine assembly and install it back in the boat. Once installed i am converting to a closed cooling system so i won't have to worry about winterizing the block anymore. When i fire the engine up for the first time i have to hold the engine at 2k rpm for 30 minutes to break the motor in this barrel would save me a cold trip to the river because  muffs are not to be used at that high rpm, doesn't supply enough water to the motor. I also coverted from mechanical fuel pump to electric and took the old ignition system out and replaced that with an updated electronic system that can easily get parts for. I'll carry a spare pump and module in case I have a failure on the water as they are easy to replace.  Striper fishing open March 1st and i am no where ready for the season!

[L&M]

Nifty idea but I think your going to need some deflectors on the sides to contain the water & if your running the engine for any length of time as per breaking in the cam/engine keep a close eye on the temperature as your just recirculating the cooling water   

[MINNOWNITE]

1 minute ago, L&M said:

Nifty idea but I think your going to need some deflectors on the sides to contain the water & if your running the engine for any length of time as per breaking in the cam/engine keep a close eye on the temperature as your just recirculating the cooling water   

I'll be having a hose constantly running into the rub so it will have a fresh cool supply consistently 

[dbitting]

I would be feeding the barrel with fresh water while it is running to replace what comes out and cooling the warmed water. It is too cold here yet to be doing this now i have about a month yet probably before we get warm enough days

 

[L&M]

[tuffishooker]

Are you sucking exhaust gas in the barrel in to the engine instead of water ? was told by dealer not to run too long in barrel or engine could over heat !

[MINNOWNITE]

10 hours ago, tuffishooker said:

Are you sucking exhaust gas in the barrel in to the engine instead of water ? was told by dealer not to run too long in barrel or engine could over heat !

The intake is by the engine. Not on the outboard. And I have a constant flow of water going to it and over flowing so it has constant fresh cool water. 

[dbitting]

On 2/22/2020 at 7:08 AM, tuffishooker said:

Are you sucking exhaust gas in the barrel in to the engine instead of water ? was told by dealer not to run too long in barrel or engine could over heat !

Not clear what you mean but  the barrel should be fed with fresh water at all times to keep the engine from over heating it isn't the exhaust gasses that over heat the engine it would be the fact you are recirculating the same water over and over again and each time the water temp increases. On an OMC sterndrive , at east mine the exhaust doesn't even enter the water as the bellows have cuts in it allowing the exhaust to escape before passing to the lower unit where it usually expels through the hub on most outdrives. Please keep in mind you are not going to be running any boat out of water for extended periods of time this is usually for flushing and testing. I could have used this last year as i flush my motor after each trip to the ocean Now i only need this to break in my motor. I will be able to use muffs to just flush the heat exchanger of the closed loop cooling system. 

[MINNOWNITE]

@dbitting This actually doesnt work lol. I thought the impeller would suck the water up. But it doesnt have any lift. After it is primed it will work. But the impeller itself needs to be below water level so it will suck the water. So I have to start it on the muffs then it will work. So that sucks

[dbitting]

I will try once my unit is complete. I would this it would create enough suction to prime the pump. Have you checked the connection between the upper and lower units to  see if it is in fact sucking air and not water?

 

[MINNOWNITE]

When I had it running a bit there I opened the drain valve to winterize it. Steam and air came out. No water. Quickly shut her down after that

[pic]

I think I mentioned this before. Use irontite tapered plugs. Magniflux to see where the crack goes then drill a hole at the end of the cracks so they won't travel anymore. Then stitch it with irontite plugs overlapping each one. You have to drill the hole, tap it with a tapered tap. You dip the plug  in the irontite solution. Screw it in till it snaps off. When done you can grind it down to make it look nice and then paint it. Done.  I have done a few hundred of them when I was in the machine shop trade, in the shop or on the road. Very good success rate.

[High Bidder]

I tried the barrel method. I smoked my impeller and the plastic housing in a few minutes. I'll stick with the muffs.