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Posted

Putting a new yamaha sho 200hp on my 196, and I really wanted NOT to have a trasom bar saver.. I'd rather go with the wedge style by the trim. And steering locks...Is the trasom strong enouph for this "long term"?   I like the idea of getting the weight off during travel with the bar, but i hate scratching up a $20k gear case..  so I was wondering if some has a definitive answer to this for this specific model,  and not just an opinion.  

Posted

A protective piece of rubber is maybe $10. A dropped outboard and broken transom is $20000+

You do the math.

Posted

I have the support with the trim .

No problems so far.

Motor does creep a little to one side but not much. But my support goes over the trim pistons (dont know what you call em)
And the other side goes against plate on the motor , but that part doesn't pivot so even if the motor moved a little should be good.
Pics in a minute.

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Posted

A transom saver takes the weight of the engine off the transom and makes it rest on the trailer. The trim support protects the trim hydraulics but not the transom. That is fine when you don't trailer your boat long distances,but for long distance trailering you need a transom saver.

Posted
20 minutes ago, wishinfishin said:

I'm not being a smart a.. .then why dont boat dealers send you on your way with the bar/ transom saver?

Either item doesn't allow the motor to bounce on the transom going down the road.?



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J327A using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

The weight of the outboard and force of the bouncing is completely absorbed by the transom if the engine is not supported by a transom saver no matter what you do for trim support. The boat dealers sell boats that may hardly ever be trailered so they may offer to sell you a transom saver,but they will not hand them out. Like car dealers will offer you special coating for your car, but they will not automatically do it.

Posted (edited)

Two possible reasons on why dealers don't think about this.

 

1.  The salesperson is not smart enough to think about this.

2.  The salesperson is smart enough to realize that additional stresses may lead to premature transom failure.

 

It may take years of trailering to cause structural damage.  It all depends on the obvious.  The condition of the road and distance trailered.  If the road is riddled with potholes, dips and bumps, it could cause damage a lot sooner.  Do some research on this and you will see that most dealers recommend transom savers to support your motor during trailering.  Additionally, the factory lock when the engine is titled in its full up position isn't designed for trailering.  That is for use when the boat is stationary.

 

And Rolmops answered your second question.  The engine is still supported by the trailer with a transom saver and it follows the load on the trailer.  An unsupported engine is not connected to the trailer and therefore will bounce around.  Just follow some boats down a rough road and watch how much they bounce around.

Edited by hairybumcrack
Posted

Not arguing ,just saying , when I was getting my boat and asked the very thing we are talking about and I said I'm trailering far for the most part , the picture is what they said is all you need.

And your correct hairy ,the lock is for when the motor is all the way up and in place when your docked .

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Posted

When I was shopping for my boat I had 2 dealers give me prices from the complete setup and on the list was a transom saver. One dealer told me he won’t sell me the transom savor because it is bad for the lower unit. The other dealer told me he won’t sell an aluminum boat without one.


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Posted
When I was shopping for my boat I had 2 dealers give me prices from the complete setup and on the list was a transom saver. One dealer told me he won’t sell me the transom savor because it is bad for the lower unit. The other dealer told me he won’t sell an aluminum boat without one.


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OMG!

Best thing then would be to take motor off throw it in the back of the truck and when you get to your fishing spot throw it back on

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J327A using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Posted

my 1997 Johnson with factory install bracket to brace motor at transom, (same idea as above pictures) on a 19' aluminum, original owner and transom is a straight as ever, always trailed. 

Like said above though, if the motor is allowed to bounce up and down, trouble with come, so as long as its "locked" to keep from bouncing you can keep your lower unit scratch free 

Posted

Another thought: skip the monster OB setup and go with a boat with an I/O (LOL). Lot easier netting fish too!

Posted

Why would your lower end get scratched up? I've been using a transom saver on my outboard for over 20 years and not a scratch. 

Posted

Maybe it's the type of transom saver I have? It's got a thick rubber vee on it and I have no blemishes whatsoever on my black Mercury lower end. 

Posted

Well, I could see why that would make a guy not want to use one, but just saying there are ways for those that do want to use a TS to do so without marring their lower unit. I installed one on my kicker as well several years ago after a buddy had his kicker lock break while going over a railroad crossing.

Posted

Doesnt one leave a kicker in the down position when trailering? And leave it in gear so the prop wont spin?  There is no threat of hitting the ground or anything so why use anything at all on a kicker?

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