Downrigger tangles

[jth21usa]

Over the winter I switched from 3 random downrigger weights to the photo below. I also switched from Cannon to Black releases. I can't seem to drop these without being tangled in the spread. I currently have 3 Scotties, 10.5 beam and this has never been a issue before. Before I go and spend a bunch of money on new weights any have a tricks or tips to get these to spread different?

 

Edited May 27, 2020 by jth21usa

[orangediablo]

I've never used those weights, but make sure the fins are straight.  Next thing I would suggest is lowering the riggers a bit slower and see if that helps.  You never did specify what's getting tangled, your lines or riggers cables.

[jth21usa]

Mostly my rigger lines. 

[Gill-T]

Shorten leads and when lowering, have rigger rod in hand placing directional pressure on rigger weight away from nearest line ie pull to the starboard for starboard rigger, pull straight out back from middle rigger and pull to the port for port rigger weight. The number one reason you are getting tangles is make sure lines are running straight out the back when lowering. For this reason I usually figure out which way the down current is running and try to head straight into it.  If your gear is angling back across the transom you will have more tangles. The other reason is small fish pulling line lateral but not popping the release. 

[NymphO]

I've never used those weights, but make sure the fins are straight.  Next thing I would suggest is lowering the riggers a bit slower and see if that helps.  You never did specify what's getting tangled, your lines or riggers cables.

Maybe the opposite and make sure to put a distinct bend in each, to be certain they pull out like wingers ?

[orangediablo]

I think he should have all of us on the boat.  U know, for research and figure out the issue

[fizbot]

I started having that problem when I switched to black releases as well.   i think it's because with the release right at the cable, and my rods sticking out past the rigger, it was causing the weight to just twist a bit, causing the weights to tangle..  I moved back to clips hanging off the end of the fin, or use the blacks, but have an agitator off the back fin helped solve the problem as well.

[ifishy]

Do you have a pic of your transom to show the set up? Is it the same two getting tangled or all 3 how much depth difference between them when running sometime a small thing can lead to constant tangles and can be maddening to figure out I once had a mag dipsey that would spin and cross the back tangeling the other dipsey I tried everything to fix and finnaly decided that the diver was just wrong so I tossed it and got a new one fixed the problem instantly

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[jth21usa]

It’s pretty standard set up

[Cha-Sea]

I use the exact ones and have been pretty happy but only running two. Sounds like good advice above. Tangles? I put the port dipsy rod in the starboard dipsy holder. Don’t do that. Lol. Mess


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[ifishy]

Looks like pleanty of separation maybe propwash is pushing the center one a bit. Try shorter leads especially if running a spin Dr or other flasher they can wander a bit. Keep the center rigger 10 feet or more above or below the others and when all elese fails just blame whoever is at the wheel for not going straight

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[Sk8man]

10 hours ago, fizbot said:

I started having that problem when I switched to black releases as well.   i think it's because with the release right at the cable, and my rods sticking out past the rigger, it was causing the weight to just twist a bit, causing the weights to tangle..  I moved back to clips hanging off the end of the fin, or use the blacks, but have an agitator off the back fin helped solve the problem as well.

I doubt seriously if the Blacks are at fault. I have used them for more than 40 years without problems  but if that weight is spinning somehow and perhaps in strong current it could introduce tangling. I mostly use the older Black releases that you thread right on the downrigger cable about 6 or 8 inches up from the weight but I have also used the more portable type as well without problems - even when pretty much "free-falling" the weights with sliders attached. Ifishy has given you a good tip too. I'd be experimenting with a different type weight such as the torpedo or shark type if it were me.

Edited May 28, 2020 by Sk8man

[Crayfish]

12 hours ago, NymphO said:

Maybe the opposite and make sure to put a distinct bend in each, to be certain they pull out like wingers ?

This is what I would try.  Put a bend in the back fin that will pull your outside riggers further to their respective sides.  It doesn't take much.  Also, don't try putting the center rigger down deeper than the the other 2 unless you put it down first.  Good luck!

[HB2]

When you say Cannon release  I assume they are the pinch release on the cable you hook on to the back of the weight . 

 

The same thing happened to me last year fishing deep and switching from Offshore to Roemers because the pads in the Offshore wore out and wouldn't hold an 11" flasher . 

 

I think the release hooked on the back of  the weight holds it straighter and has less of a tendency to swing back and forth . 

[fizbot]

9 hours ago, Sk8man said:

I doubt seriously if the Blacks are at fault. I have used them for more than 40 years without problems  but if that weight is spinning somehow and perhaps in strong current it could introduce tangling. I mostly use the older Black releases that you thread right on the downrigger cable about 6 or 8 inches up from the weight but I have also used the more portable type as well without problems - even when pretty much "free-falling" the weights with sliders attached. Ifishy has given you a good tip too. I'd be experimenting with a different type weight such as the torpedo or shark type if it were me.

elaborating further, it was not the in-line black release that was the issue, it was actually that I had my rods pointing away from the boat (Left and Right) which was causing the ball to twist more and get tangled.... When I adjusted my rod holders to point straight out the back the problem went away.

[Sk8man]

The problem with bending the fins on the weights and sending them outward is that they will be tracking way out in the cone of your depth finder and you may frequently lose sight of them. Try running your center downrigger deeper than the side riggers and with a shorter lead say 10 ft back then use longer leads on the side riggers and while keeping the boat straight slowly lower each rigger if they are tangling on the way down you may see signs of it on the tips of the rod (e.g. vibrating). If your weights are tracking correctly you shouldn't be getting tangled under normal currents etc. I think your problem is related to the weights themselves possibly drifting sideways or perhaps turning back and forth.

Edited May 28, 2020 by Sk8man

[hard knox]

I run 4 riggers on a 8.5 beam without ever a issue i use torpedo weights from Harvey trout man track great i also use scotty riggers and decent speed is not a issue !

[Cpshelb17]

12 hours ago, ifishy said:

Looks like pleanty of separation maybe propwash is pushing the center one a bit. Try shorter leads especially if running a spin Dr or other flasher they can wander a bit. Keep the center rigger 10 feet or more above or below the others and when all elese fails just blame whoever is at the wheel for not going straight

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When in doubt, blame the wheel man!

[HB2]

And also on my small boat I have 2 short arms about 6 ft apart with 10# derbies and have not had one tangle fishing down to 85 ft . Your weights are swinging side to side IMO . 

 

 

Real Short leads with very  different depth may have the shallow lure catch the blown back line from rod tip to release of the deep rigger  . I have had this happen .

 

And I do a lot of tight turning . 

Edited May 28, 2020 by HB2

[jth21usa]

I think I’m changing out to fish this weekend, I’ve never had a issue with them. Anyone want to by 3 12lb downrigger weights, they may tangle? Cheap!

[AnglingAddict]

Set your deepest rigger first....

[Fat Trout]

2 minutes ago, AnglingAddict said:

Set your deepest rigger first....

This!   …….and when a deeper rigger fires, put the shallower rigger at the deeper rigger location and set the original deep rigger to the shallow position.   If you want the same lure back in the deeper spot, when both are set, pull the deep one, move the shallower one deep and reset the shallower one.   I learned a while ago that passing riggers (especially with flashers) can be dicey.  Admittedly I tend to set my lines further back which makes it more of a potential concern.   Perfect conditions and shallower-er, no problem (wider transom helps)  Deeper you go the hairier it gets especially below 80 ish feet, especially > 100.  My port and starboard shark weights have a slight kick in the back fin to make them plane out just a little.  My center rear rigger (when I run it) is my shallowest rigger and set last.   I may loose some time with my philosophy, but I don't tangle rigger lines or weights anymore so I think my time spent saves time in the long run.  I really only tangled rigger balls once....fishing deep with a narrow transom boat and shark weights without the kick (plus a solid current below).  I tangled lines plenty of times (in the past) and made lots of balls of twisted fuzz.  

[Mike M]

Rigger weights shoud be round or torpedo shape IMHO. Pancakes are a PITA. You can't get them to run totally true. Currents affect them alot.. Just my HO.

[reeltrout]

9 hours ago, Mike M said:

Rigger weights shoud be round or torpedo shape IMHO. Pancakes are a PITA. You can't get them to run totally true. Currents affect them alot.. Just my HO.

I agree with you. I had bought pancake weights a few years back, all they did was tangle, no fun... They are sitting back on the shelf.