Rigger blowback

[greenhornet73]

I have only been using downriggers for 2 seasons now and haven’t been as successful as i hoped.  After trolling for kings this past Sunday I noticed the blowback had to be close to a 45* angle with flashers and 2.8 mph troll and knew my set couldn’t be running as deep as I wanted.  I just googled it and found a few charts and looks like I haven’t been even close to the depths I wanted to target.  I’m using 10lb balls since I have manual crank DR’s.  When you guys are setting your riggers are you compensating by letting out more cable to get to that targeted depth? Trying to figure out why I suck so bad when the bite is supposedly hot and I’m getting skunked 

Edited July 10, 2020 by greenhornet73
Misspell

[Frogger]

I’ve noticed when trolling at 2.5-2.7 with 12lb sharks that I’m typically seeing a 10-13ft difference down 75-90 ft with using my x4d I’d bet your pushing 15-20ft difference with 10lbers if going past 75ft with that speed at the ball.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[greenhornet73]

Exactly. One chart I read suggested when I had 100’ out I was only running 75’ down. Ouch

[Adk1]

I use 12lb fish weights. They track really well and do not seem to blow back as far as my round weights did

[greenboatluke]

I use 13 lbs torpedo weights and have manual riggers. Same situation as above. Less blow back. Around 10 ft at 100 feet out. Also use a x4d.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

[KilliansRed]

Yesterday I had my 10 pound shark weights down 76 but the fish hawk said 58


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

[chinook35]

I have only been using downriggers for 2 seasons now and haven’t been as successful as i hoped.  After trolling for kings this past Sunday I noticed the blowback had to be close to a 45* angle with flashers and 2.8 mph troll and knew my set couldn’t be running as deep as I wanted.  I just googled it and found a few charts and looks like I haven’t been even close to the depths I wanted to target.  I’m using 10lb balls since I have manual crank DR’s.  When you guys are setting your riggers are you compensating by letting out more cable to get to that targeted depth? Trying to figure out why I suck so bad when the bite is supposedly hot and I’m getting skunked 

There are charts available to show the actual depth achieved by measuring the angle of the rigger cable. There is also a formula you can use to figure it I feel your pain. Years ( too many ) ago I was in the same situation. 10 lb finned cannonballs. At times with speed and down currents the cable was 45°. I found that to reach 100 ft depth I had to let out 150 ft of cable. I finally bought a cannon speed n temp. That verified my findings. Many times I was having to let out almost half again the amount of cable to reach the wanted depth.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

[chinook35]

I was trying to copy the chart I can’t get it to paste. Go to Lake Michigan angler -Determining down rigger depth while trolling -they have a chart and formula. It’s an eye opener

 

And don’t make the rookie mistake of thinking your sonar (Distance finder) is showing you the depth your bait and cannonballs are fishing. It’s showing you how far your cannonballs are from the transducer , not the actual depth

 

[greenhornet73]

That’s a good point too. I did take that into account this spring and measured the transducer to be 18” below the actual waterline.

[chinook35]

That’s a good point too. I did take that into account this spring and measured the transducer to be 18” below the actual waterline.

You can adjust that off set on your sonar I’ve never bothered that 18 inches would actually help you in shallow water I meant don’t look at your sonar , if it is tracking your cannonballs , and think that , for instance it shows your cb’s at 100 ft. , That is their actual depth. It’s not. It is showing an object 100 ‘ from the ducer




Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

[rdebadts]

I'd get torpedo or shark weights to start with. They're a lot more aerodynamic and don't have as much blowback. Current can also play a huge role, so watch out for that


The Fishin’ Physician Assistant

[greenhornet73]

I don’t have shark weights but they are fish shaped so I figured they would be more aerodynamic. The current may have played a role too but I was also trolling faster than my usual walleye speed

[jimski2]

I'd get torpedo or shark weights to start with. They're a lot more aerodynamic and don't have as much blowback. Current can also play a huge role, so watch out for that


The Fishin’ Physician Assistant

Late summer season succeeds when you use heavier spoons at 3 plus mph speeds for kings. Dipsey Divers work well at deep waters when your cannonballs will not hold at 80 plus feet of water.


Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United