Can I Install a Planer Mast? Or No?

[guffins fisherman]

I have run both methods extensively.  I have both on my boat.  For light biting, smaller fish I run the inlines...namely walleyes.  They just keep the fish hooked up better and are more accurate for depth and lead control.  With that said, if I am targeting heavier, harder hitting fish....namely browns and early kings, the big boards and mast are the way to go.  I have fished browns on inline boards, and I don't care for fighting the board and the bigger fish.  It will work, but for spring browns when they are aggressive and come more frequently, having the line release and swing to the center is so nice.  While the client is fighting the fish, I am moving the releases down the line.  

 

As far as installing a mast on the OP's boat, I'd say go for it, just use the seat mount, and put in a tether to haul in the tow line to set up each release.

Edited March 4, 2021 by guffins fisherman

[Bad_Influence]

Guffins fisherman nailed it...

[pukingdog]

2 hours ago, Traveling Circus said:

PD, What releases are working well for walleyes?

I make my own. I buy alligator clips from McMaster-Carr. I use key hole shaped shower curtain clips from Lowes or Home Depot. I bought red silicone rubber pincher pads on line (EBAY) They are 0.60 dia by 0.187 thick. I bought like 500 of them in 2006 for $15. Enough for a life time and I have fixed up 3 or 4 close friends and still have a  hundreds left over. I epoxy 2 pads into clips using 3M epoxy. They release great on walleye but may not always release on small junk fish. I'm typically pulling 20 ft jets or lead core with mono running thru pincher pads. Braid thru pads doesn't work that well, so I don't use braid at all. Work perfect on Lake O with spoons on mono.

If you don't want to invest in all the components, you can just buy Weldons, but mine work better because of the pads I use. Mine actually release by themselves most of the time.

 

 

[mr 580]

In a smaller boat application like the OP’s Lund Rebel 1625, in line’s are a better option to me from a space and storage consideration alone.  If you fish with same crew, it is pretty easy to have a routine with in lines.  If you want in lines to be easier to reel in try a Sam’s pro release.  Big boards are awkward to store even the folding ones.

[hookedupf7]

I have a 19 ft starweld. I have my mast mounted to the bow. Really havnt had any issues. I also have a cheap rocket launcher that hooks to my Bimini top . Works good for storage but I do whack my head when going for a fish if rods are in the center of rocket launcher

[scobar]

I didn't read every reply given,  but on my 19' the mast is in the seat base. I extend the length of the mast to 8'. I did have rod holders same as yours, so I took the 6 out cut them in half and just moved them all the way forward on each side, totally out of the way for any turns. I too have have a clip with a "pull in" line inside the windshield, in my opinion this set up works great and all rods are still rigged and ready

Scott

[Lipripr]

Have 18' starcraft.  Run my post out of front seat pedalstal.   With otter boats.  Never a issue.   Have extra rods ready right in front of me...

[Blue Heron]

I spent a lot of hours trolling spring trout/salmon from a rebel 1625  with the mast mounted in the front seat base and triple rod holders mounted towards the back. As long as your boards are tuned well and run out to the sides of your boat you will have no issues.

 

(If you want to build your own mast a chain link fence corner post (from Home Depot) works nicely)

[nomis]

On 3/13/2021 at 6:46 AM, Blue Heron said:

I spent a lot of hours trolling spring trout/salmon from a rebel 1625  with the mast mounted in the front seat base and triple rod holders mounted towards the back. As long as your boards are tuned well and run out to the sides of your boat you will have no issues.

 

(If you want to build your own mast a chain link fence corner post (from Home Depot) works nicely)

Thats the plan. The measurements match, but its almost too good to be true. Does the post just slide into place with no other adjustments?

 

Also, is the seat base strong enough to handle the stress? I'm wondering if it makes sense to do some kind of guy wire back to the bow.

[Blue Heron]

Yes it slides in fine - my base had small tab at the bottom in one spot and I notched the post for that

 

I actually built mine with a shock cord that ran from the front side (at the top) down to the front of the boat it gave it some extra support under load - dont know if it was really needed but.......

[mudflat]

Use some kind of tether to keep the mast in place

 

The seat base is strong enough but without a tether my mast will work it's way upward over time and can pop out of the base.

I was fortunate to have noticed my mast was wiggling upward before it came all the way out, would have been a real mess.

 

[nomis]

46 minutes ago, mudflat said:

Use some kind of tether to keep the mast in place

 

The seat base is strong enough but without a tether my mast will work it's way upward over time and can pop out of the base.

I was fortunate to have noticed my mast was wiggling upward before it came all the way out, would have been a real mess.

 

Thats a good tip. I hadn't thought about that.

 

A mess would be an understatement. I'm sure there would be plenty of lost or damaged gear. Not to mention the poor guy in the back of the boat who might take the post to the back of his head.

[Bad_Influence]

2 hours ago, nomis said:

Thats a good tip. I hadn't thought about that.

 

A mess would be an understatement. I'm sure there would be plenty of lost or damaged gear. Not to mention the poor guy in the back of the boat who might take the post to the back of his head.

I used a seat extension and drilled a 5/16 hole straight through the extension and the mast. I slide the mast into the seat extension which locks into the base and slip a 2" spring lock pin through the hole I drilled to lock the mast into the extension...works like a champ. The pin also prevents the mast from twisting as well.

 

Edited March 16, 2021 by Bad_Influence

[Fins 2]

I used to use the seat base with a bungee to the bow of the boat. Now I have 2 cisco electric reels mounted to the wakeboard tower, and I love them. Amish Outfitters Pilgrim Clips have always worked well for me on both salmon and walleye. I just don't put the line more than about a third of the way in the clip for walleye.

[000]

On my Lund Fury I mounted the mast in the front seat post (raised floor casting deck). For reinforcement I took a split ring backer plate and screwed it to the front compartment anchor locker, then attached a piece of 3/8" threaded rod to the seat post using a split ring. Comes off and on very easy and is very sturdy.

[Polishcannon]

Hi everyone. 
I am new to LOU, and I would like to share my mast and rod storage solution. I mounted my mast base plate to a wood deck on a seat post. Additionally I added two 4 tube rod holders to it. I am fishing out of a G3 Outfitter. It is a small 17’6” boat, which I multi-species fish out of, so space and flexibility is key. I am looking forward to utilizing it this spring on my virgin attempt at fishing Lake O for salmon.
Tight lines 

[troutman10]

Thats a sharp setup. How is the wood attached to the seat post? 

Edited January 2, 2022 by troutman10

[Polishcannon]

It has a seat base on the post, which allows me to screw it to the wood deck. 

[laker1]

I also have a Lund Rebel.  Why not mount the mast on the bow deck?  I haven’t done this yet. But if there are concerns

please tell me now before I drill and bolt  my Cannon mounting plate.

 

jim

[sherman brown]

On 3/3/2021 at 3:58 PM, Bad_Influence said:

My boards pull so hard if I had a mast mount all the way forward I would have to stand on the Gunnels, and lean out to grab the line every time. Seems like it would be a **** setting lines and almost dangerous with any chop. To each his own...

you get something like traxstech pully retriever or just a line with a cleat on the end that attaches to the board line to pull it to you to attach your lines.

[Polishcannon]

Laker1 

I had my base originally mounted to my bow deck, but the advantages to getting a higher pull point is a wider spread. It helps to mitigate the seas. As far as reachability, just attached a cleat line with a glass ring. Hope this helps your install. I typically use inline boards for walleye but I am planning on trying weighted steel line for Lake O and salmon fishing. The beauty of my set up is it is not permanent and very versatile. 
Tight lines

[laker1]

Thank you Polishcannon. 

[tedc54]

I have an 18 foot Skeeter MX, multi species boat. I have a planer board mast in the fitting on my front deck where my front seat goes.

 

I use my boat hook to retrieve my planer board line even if it is a little bumpy. It works well. One tip I would give you or anyone with a similar setup is to not use a rod tree with the big boards out on a planer board mast. You may end up with a spider web or even worse, lose a rod. I did both! Also, don't try to run more than six rods total. 4 is best. Also have found that running one big board toward shore and then using numbers 0 or 1 dipsys away from shore works pretty well and minimizes clusters. I am using Chinook dipsys. They work well and are not as hard to trip or reel in.

 

Have fun and good luck. Can't wait for spring.

[copperpin]

I have a Rebel XL 1650 sport.  I run the post right into the seat post hole straight through to the hull and use some PVC fittings to take up the room around the post in the hole so it doesnt move around.  Two pieces of paracord from the top to the front cleats holds it securely while trolling.  Never had a problem, but I really like polishcannons rig above