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Posted

Just hit the plugs not to much pull the kill switch and turn over a couple times. Shooting some in airbox while running won't hurt anything.  Do lower unit oil change and keep trimmed all the way down.

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Posted

I have always treated fuel with stabil first. Then run the engine until the stabil is being introduced into the motor. This of course before fogging the cylinders. I used the red color stabil up until the last two years now I use the blue color (marine). The marine grade treats fuel for 12 months where as the red last up to 24.

Posted

I always used stabil marine without any issues but this summer had a mechanic tell me to only use k100 for overwintering, said it was the best.

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Posted

Too set in my ways to change now:  since 1954 I have babied my outboard my cylinders for the winter this way, starting then with my 1.1 and last week for my 1986 Yamaha 40EL. I have this antique little trigger operated half pint oil can filled with whatever clean 2-cycle oil left over. with the plugs out and the engine tilted up, I squirt too shots toward the upper cylinder wall and let it sit a couple of minutes then lower the engine and turn it over at least one cycle. I replace the plugs and will change them out in the Spring. I have never had engine issues in the head doing this so I think I may get away with not making the change. I know, TMI, Dave

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Posted

Mercury, Mercruiser, and Yamaha both recommend fogging the engine with what we call a "cocktail." Here at Krenzer marine we use a 6 gallon shop tank shop tank filled with 5 gallons of 90 No Ethanol fuel, 2 quarts of 2-cycle TC-W3 oil, and 1oz of Stabilizer. We run the engine on t his for 5-10 minutes. This cocktail lubricates the cylinders and fuel pump.

  • Like 2
Posted

I've heard about a mixture they use. Now is the quick silver 2 stroke oil ok. And my motor is 2 stroke. That is what I don't understand the internals would be coated I asume and in them motors where does the mixing process takes place

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