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Posted

Yes, you let out all the sinking line and clip your planer board onto the backing. The one exception is a special setup with wire backing - let's say 100 weighted steel with 1000ft of wire backing and using this as a chute rod. You can let out as many ft of wire as you like since the resistance of the water allows the wire to keep diving and each out deeper. I don't use such setup but many do.

Posted
1 hour ago, kempie said:

Do you have to let all of the line out when running steel line like you do when running copper.

No you don't

Every hundred feet of weighted steel wire gets you 20 feet down, If you have a good line counter you can for instance go 50 feet out and be only 10 feet down.

Normally the weighted wire is sold in 200 and 300 feet lengths. It is true that the sinking rate of regular torpedo wire THAT IS LET OUT BEHIND WEIGHTED STEEL, has the same sinking rate as the weighted line. So if you want to fish 80 feet down you can let 200 weighted and 200 regular torpedo wire out and be at 80 feet down.

I much prefer the weighted steel wire because it does not create the nasty birds nests that copper does. It also catches more fish, because not having to mess around with the famous nasty copper birds nests allows you to have your line in the water instead of the back of the boat.

  • Like 1
Posted

For those guys that are running weighted steel with wire line as backer, how are you putting that into a planer board release?

Posted

Sorry guys, I left something out.

It is only the 19 strand torpedo wire that has the above mentioned sinking capability , the 7 strand has a rougher surface and will not sink at that rate.

Posted

For those who are running the 19th strand  as  backer how are you attaching it to in line planner boards?  I know how you attach it to the big Boards with rubber bands. 

Posted
On 2/5/2022 at 8:49 PM, pole setter said:

For those who are running the 19th strand  as  backer how are you attaching it to in line planner boards?  I know how you attach it to the big Boards with rubber bands. 


I asked this question to the guys at torpedo directly a few years ago and this was the response I got. I wasn't comfortable with the rubber band idea, so I never actually tried it. I just run braid backing on my WS setups and attach the boards to the braid.

image.thumb.png.94babe864d31f89aca7dc1b95573cce1.png

Posted
1 hour ago, FishingFool34 said:


I asked this question to the guys at torpedo directly a few years ago and this was the response I got. I wasn't comfortable with the rubber band idea, so I never actually tried it. I just run braid backing on my WS setups and attach the boards to the braid.

image.thumb.png.94babe864d31f89aca7dc1b95573cce1.png

Thank you for sharing! I would think you would have to attach that rubber band close to the release as there would be too much stretch on the rubber band and the board would not run correctly JMO. 

Posted (edited)
43 minutes ago, pole setter said:

Thank you for sharing! I would think you would have to attach that rubber band close to the release as there would be too much stretch on the rubber band and the board would not run correctly JMO. 

Yeah, I wasn't interested in testing out different rubber band sizes to figure out what would hold up and not break due to wind, waves, etc. It would have been nice to have a WS setup that could have potentially covered multiple different depths, but instead I opted to just go the route of dedicated setups with braid backing. I also run a Sam's Pro releases on the front of my inline boards now and there's no way, even with rubbers to attach to that release and have it function properly.

Edited by FishingFool34
Posted
6 minutes ago, FishingFool34 said:

Yeah, I wasn't interested in testing out different rubber band sizes to figure out what would hold up and not break due to wind, waves, etc. It would have been nice to have a WS setup that could have potentially covered multiple different depths, but instead I opted to just go the route of dedicated setups with braid backing. 

I totally agree 

Posted

I have talked about this with several experienced anglers/captains on this - my understanding is that the main purpose of such setup with 19-strand backing is to run the rod as a chute rod, which makes a lot of sense, i.e. you can achieve variable depth with such a chute rod. You could use it as 100WS + 100 wire too to reach almost the same depth as 200 WS but in the context of the chute rod, anyone opting in for a setup like this has to take into account tangles that will inevitably happen and I have decided that my trolling-fishing life is exciting enough.

 

I have experienced enough tangles to say "no" to a chute rod like this (may try it in the future) because there will always be be a crazy salmon that would spool you and would run one of your rigger or dipsy or even planer rods into such a chute rod, and you would have to spend time untangling the lines and potentially fixing the wire after a little while too. So, time and $$$. And therefore I had decided to opt out for a dedicated setups with braided backing and Sam's Pro releases. Basically the way RG does it - absolutely fantastic.

 

Worth noting that I do however run a chute rod on Lake Erie all the time along with 2 or 4 dipsies and/or 2x rigger rods, the walleyes won't run as fast and no tangles because of walleyes.

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