Lower Unit Revisited

[Pete Collin]

Hello All,

Last fall I used the last warm day to attempt removing the lower unit of my 1995 70 hp Joohnson 2 cycle.  I hit a snag when, after detaching the linkage and removing every bolt, I found that the lower unit wouldn't budge.  Not wiggle, not even crack a line in the paint at the joint.  I got a suggestion from rolmops to heat it up, and I waited for a nice warm spring day to try that.  Using a heat gun, I went around the joint and tapped it with a wooden mallet.  Won't budge.  At this point I'm stymied.  I defy anybody to locate a fastener that I overlooked!  The only thing I can think of is that there is a crust of a limestone-like mineral on the trolling plate and at the edges of the joint.  Does the hard water that we typically fish in get in there and cement everything together?  There isn't any shop in western NY who will take it.

Pete

[Prof T]

Pete, did you look under the trim tab? Sometimes one hides there.

[Pete Collin]

5 minutes ago, Prof T said:

Pete, did you look under the trim tab? Sometimes one hides there.

Yes

[Shakemsam]

Generally, a propane torch at the minimum is required when using heat. When that fails, try Mapp gas. A rubber mallet might be better and don't be shy with it.

Pugsley's would look at it if you need. They are in Ontario, NY.

[rolmops]

[rolmops]

I just sent you a little print of your lower unit. This is just to make sure that you did get all the bolts.

On the outer rim there are 4 bolts toward the front end (#66) and towards the rear there are 2 .(#68 and #70).these two are often allen bolts and sort of hidden . #70 is easily found,but for #68 you will have to remove #76 by unscrewing bolt #77. then you will find #68 hidden inside the trim tab area. (that last one is often forgotten.

If that engine has been in salt water, then there may be a broken bolt somewhere. Do not try to drill it out until the lower unit is removed. Very often you will see a stub after the lower unit is removed and if you can get a vise grip on to the stub, they usually can be unscrewed after having applied penetrating oil and some heat. Make sure that the shift rod is not only disconnected from the top but also loose and if possible  the gear in reverse. If I remember correct, I sent you a Youtube of the process.

Let me know how things work out.

Edited March 18, 2022 by rolmops

[Pete Collin]

Thanks, Cornelius.  I'll let you know how it goes.