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Posted (edited)

Just picked up a 2014 Merc 9.9 and now have to figure where/ how to mount it on my limited transom space.  I’ve seen a few pictures of my boat pictured online with kickers but not close up enough to see how they did it.  I have a manual pull w/ tiller handle model and thinking I may have to use an EZ-steer  since the handle will probably not be able to extend over the top of the transom. The boat is a Sea Ray Laguna18.  Any recommendations or thoughts?  

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Edited by greenhornet73
Posted (edited)

You could research/contact some of the bracket companies for specs on the mounting side measurements. Then see how close it would be to your main if you mounted it all the way up at the bumper rail to the bottom of the hull. I have a spring loaded one and I like it, gets it up and out of the water when not in use. Also ez steer would be the way to go to link it to the main steering. I have one on mine and it works well. 

Edited by greenboatluke
Posted

See if there’s enough room to put it right next to the main engine. That would be the best place. If it fits and the engines do not hit each other when steering, you’re in business and you will need a panther steering bar and not an EZsteer.

  • Like 1
Posted

There is enough room to mount it next to the main motor but the steering rod looks like it will totally be in the way.  I will have a friend of mine help me to see if we can get it to sit right otherwise I may end up dropping it on the ground if it doesn’t sit right on.  I would be ready to fish this weekend but I’m not too hopeful it will be that easy.

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Posted

Interesting idea.  That just might work if it can be shortened up a little so I could reach the tiller handle or put an extension on it.  I’d also have to make sure the lower unit is still low enough below the hull. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

There is a way to move the steering arm of the main engine to starboard. Instead of sliding the bar at the end of the steering cable through the pipe in front of the engine. It has the pipe on the starboard side of the engine. There is or maybe used to be an adjustment to do exactly that. I had one on a 1960s. StarCraft that did exactly that. These systems were popular when cable steering was being replaced by the steering that is common today.

http://continuouswave.com/sail-logs/ottawaRiver2006/images/8_CamoWhaler13Transom.jpg

Edited by rolmops
Posted

beside the main motor would be the way to go if it fits and turns as it should. if it doesn't fit the next best option is to get a mount that lifts by hand so it's out of the water for running. there are tons of them out there but all are not great mounts. go to amazon and search for kicker outboard mounts and on eBay. you will find one that will work for you. panther makes a good one but they are pricy.,

 

there are way better steering connectors than the panther but if you want a panther steering kit I have one brand net that I bought off here when he had it listed as an EZ steer, but I will take 25.00 for the panther steering kit shipped to your door.

Posted (edited)

I had to have one of my towing eye bolts moved but I was able to have the bracket fit in (barely). By the way although some folks may not believe it you may not need a steering arm to troll. I used an EZ steer for a few years and it was a pain so I tried not using anything at all and under most conditions it works fine without any I just tilt the small motor a few degrees toward the main and then steer with the main motor (135 Merc) I also have an extension for an electric trolling motor that fits over the tiller handle if I need it so I  don't have to reach out and can adjust easily inside.to change direction. If it is real windy I troll with the big motor.

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Edited by Sk8man
Posted

Nice, I guess I’m not too worried about turning with it while trolling since I will usually be using my minn kota auto pilot at thebow  with a remote to keep me on course and make turns.  Just want to be able to reach the handle to change speed or make quick changes in direction if need be. I’m hoping if I use a kicker bracket I can keep the motor high enough to reach the pull chord and still have the ventilation plate below the hull. When I get home I’ll make some measurements.

Posted

You may be able to do what I did. Here is what I use

Tillerhandle.JPG

Posted
17 hours ago, greenhornet73 said:

How long of an extension is that? 

That extension a long threaded bar with removable ends. You can cut it at whatever length you need , and screw the ends back on.

Posted (edited)

This is probably a cheap and effective option. You can attach it next to the main engine on the back of the tansom and it will set your kicker far enough backward to prevent problems with the main engine.

Kicker Motor Bracket

Edited by rolmops
Posted

Wow, I haven’t seen that or maybe it didn’t click when I saw it. Looks like it would work if I opted not to use the tiller for steering since the handle is on the port side of the motor where it would hit the storage compartment.  I am going to try an adjustable kicker bracket but if that doesn’t work out that just maybe my plan B. Thank you!

Posted

Kicker brackets sometimes are necessary, but remember you will want the kicker completely out of the water when at speed, when mounting the bracket. Also, keep in mind other transom mounted devices like ducers and trim tabs if they are in your future plans.  Also remember your dr cables location especially on a turn.

Posted

It is 36 inches as seen but can extend to 53 inches

Posted

if you have a trolling motor on the bow that has autopilot built in it will do a much better job of boat control pulling the boat rather than pushing it. plus all the kicker does is power the boat forward and the trolling motor steers it. the t/m will give a much better response steering than a kicker.

Posted

Yes but try getting off the lake during a storm when your big motor quits or won't start:o

Posted
14 minutes ago, Sk8man said:

Yes but try getting off the lake during a storm when your big motor quits or won't start:o

True story. There are times I suppose that steering ability may be necessary with the kicker.

Posted

Have a 201 Mako.

Bought aT9.9 Yamaha last year.

put the Panther SS bracket on.

One thing I found when I was looking at the new motor was , if you have power trim on the small motor, it doesn’t have clamps to go on to the bracket. It should be bolted on.

Got out a few times last year.

I clamped the motor straight and used the main motor as a rudder  as I have an auto pilot hooked to the main motor.

Happy with the results but will be looking to tie both motors together this year.

Good luck.

Posted
8 hours ago, sherman brown said:

if you have a trolling motor on the bow that has autopilot built in it will do a much better job of boat control pulling the boat rather than pushing it. plus all the kicker does is power the boat forward and the trolling motor steers it. the t/m will give a much better response steering than a kicker.

Not in a 2-3 ft chop.

Posted

The panther steering bar is very underrated on my last boat I used it to a kicker that was a tiller and it was very easy to connect and disconnect as it attached at the front  of the motors and they are extremely customizable the instructions even walk through bending or cutting to match the fit.  On the new boat I got a dealer I stalled kicker with power tilt and controls at the helm again use the panther steering bar and don't even have to detach it.  In my opinion for outboard to outboard it's the best answer ez steer is overpriced and is better suited to an io to kicker set up

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